The Day of the Dead celebration is marked by various rituals, including the American Halloween. But in Oaxaca this holiday, known as Los Dias de los Muertos, is something that goes far beyond trick or treating and children in costumes. It is not marked by carved pumpkins and children garnering as much candy as can fill their bags.
Rather, it is a holy holiday, one that marks the celebration of those who have passed away, death being part of life. Further, it is an honoring of those who once were part of their lives, a day of remembrance. It is a day infused with a feeling of spirit. Yes, there are parades, such as the large on in Mitla with all kinds of flamboyant costumes, and major decorations in the large cemeteries, but the most important acknowledgment of this holy holiday takes place at the individual altars in each home.
For the Zapotec people, the altar is the focal point in their home. All during the year, it is adorned with photos, some of Mary and Jesus, with candles, with vases of flowers and with other objects that have special meaning. But on these two days, November 1st and 2nd, the altars become more specific and elaborate. Now, particular flowers, including the deep red foxglove and the bright orange and yellow marigolds, symbolize this holiday. More photos are added of their loved ones who have passed on. There are plates of the special egg based bread that are in abundance in every market and more candles. Plates of nuts and fruit and specially prepared candies are there too, as well as a bottle of mescal, the traditional drink used to commemorate all special events
In the evening, most of the village walks to the cemetery at the church, as they have been doing for centuries. They carry flowers and candles, food and drink, and kneel at the graves of their loved ones, as well as visiting the graves of their departed friends. It is a sharing with the difunctos, as they are known in Spanish, this day when they feel those spirits have returned to be with them once again. The first day of Los Dias de los Muertos is dedicated to the memories of the children. It is the day when they return to their families one more time. The second day is for all the others, which ends with the pilgrimage to the cemetery.
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In my almost 40 years of living and working with the weavers and other Zapotec people of a small village outside of Oaxaca, I have always been reminded of whatever they do, whether it is celebrating a special holiday or simply being involved in an exchange of business, everything is infused with the spirit. Every home, rich or poor, has as the focal point of their home, a carefully tended altar. The weavings that may be piled up on the benches along the wall are also infused with this same sense of spirit. There is no separation. It is something that I think is worth remembering when we are involved in our own business transactions, that they are not apart from, but part of our everyday lives…..
Susanna Starr October, 2010
